The region's premier landscape contractor & garden center
2389 S. Highway 33, Driggs, ID
Mon-Sat 9:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.
28 Sep 2020

4 Reasons to Plant Bulbs this Fall

1- Bulbs are Beautiful:
Vibrant colors, fragrance and eye appealing combinations make bulbs one of the most charming flowers of the spring.

2- Bulbs are Easy to Plant:
Plant bulbs once and reap the rewards of color year after year. Simply choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Dig a hole two to three times the bulb’s height (for example if a bulb is two inches tall, dig a hole four to six inches deep). Sprinkle the bottom of the hole with bulb food or bone meal and place the bulb pointy side up. Cover with soil, water once and wait for spring! To plant bigger clumps of bulbs, follow the same method as above but make a wider hole and place multiple bulbs into the same hole. This ‘pit planting’ method saves time and bigger groups of bulbs make more of a visual impact than a scattering of single bulbs.

3- Bulbs Will Make You Happy:
Imagine a warm spring day after months of seeing mostly snow, ice and mud. You walk outside and ta-da! A pretty clump of purple crocus are blooming right next to the receding snow. Studies have shown that flowers release the ‘happy’ brain chemicals triggering positive emotions. Plant bulbs to plant happiness!

4- Bulbs Feed the Pollinators:
Yes, bulbs are wonderful for spring color, but did you know that flowering bulbs are also a valuable food source for bees? Bulbs are one of the first available pollen sources for bees and other pollinating insects.

Plant bulbs in the Fall:
All spring-blooming bulbs like daffodils, tulips and crocus need a cold period before they will bloom. This starts the biochemical process that makes them bloom. Bulbs are not like seeds where they can be viable for months without planting. Bulbs will dry out and are unlikely to bloom if they are not planted in the fall. Plant bulbs any time before the ground freezes.

18 Aug 2020

What Bugs Us?

Cabbage Worms
Cabbage worms are the larvae of the cabbage butterfly. These pests feed on cabbages and other brassicas like broccoli, cauliflowers, Brussels sprouts, and kale. Their green coloring makes them tough to detect until they have started chewing crops. Ragged tears and holes in leaves are typical signs of their presence.
Like many garden pests, prevention is best. A floating row cover (DeWitt ™ seed guard) set out early in the growing season will keep cabbage butterflies from laying their eggs on plants. If you do spot cabbage worms, control the populations with hand-picking or applying the affected crops with Bt (bacillus thuringiensis) or Spinosad. Both Bt and Spinosad are the active ingredient in commercial organic insecticides. Our friendly greenhouse staff can help you choose the correct product with these ingredients. Remember to always read the directions on the product label and apply product precisely!

11 Aug 2020

6 Perennials for Late Summer Color

Some of our favorite perennial flowers like columbine, peonies and lupine are finished blooming for the season. While these popular perennials are no longer in their prime, gardeners can keep the colors going with these late season bloomers:

Yarrow: We love the colorful choices of this super tough plant. Available in sunset colors, pinks and white, yarrow is also deer and vole resistant and makes a long-lasting cut flower.
Echinacea: Also known as coneflower, Echinacea is typically purple or white, but newer varieties of orange and yellow are beginning to become popular. Echinacea is an excellent cut flower and attracts butterflies.
Ornamental Grasses: August is the time ornamental grasses really start to shine. Their seed heads shimmer in the golden sunlight and the gentle sway of their stems add a magical element to any landscape.
Sedum: There are a wide variety of sedums, most begin to bloom late summer. Bloom colors vary from pink to yellow and white. Use sedums as ground covers, in rock gardens or try them in a container. Taller varieties like ‘autumn joy’ really pack a late season color punch, especially when planted in masses. Pollinating insects love sedums as a late-season pollen source.
Russian Sage: Drifts of soft purple spikes and grey foliage make Russian Sage a late summer standout. It thrives in hot sun and is drought tolerant once established.
Helenium: Featuring daisy-like flowers in warm tones of red, orange, and yellow, helenium can be anywhere from 1-3 feet tall. Its long stems make it a wonderful flower for cutting.

08 Jul 2020

Wild Weather Gardening

Perfect summer weather in our region is seldom long-lasting. Seasoned locals can tell the tales of late June freezes, snow on the fourth of July or winds that blew away the trampoline. Savvy gardeners are also studious weather observers, ready to act no matter what Ma Nature throws our way. Here are some of our common wild weather extremes and tips for damage control.

Snow: A light blanket of snow over blooming flowers and emerging leaves will do little damage, but accompanying cold temperatures can be an issue with tender annuals, hanging baskets and veggie gardens (see ‘frost’ in the following paragraph). Heavy snow on fully leafed-out trees and blooming flowers can topple whole trees, break branches and squish flowers. If it’s snowing and accumulating heavily, shaking branches free of snow can help reduce the weight and chance of breakage. After a summer snow storm, cut or prune anything damaged or broken. Healthy trees and plants will eventually re-grow.

Frost: The good news is that frosts are usually forecast. The bad news is that frost can happen any day of the summer. A daily habit of checking the weather forecast will arm you with the information needed to act. If/when frost is predicted, cover tender plants and veggie gardens with frost cloth (we sell DeWitt™ N-Sulate), an old sheet or a tarp. Harvest any ripe produce from your veggie garden and when possible, move tender hanging baskets and potted annuals indoors. Frost damage can be trimmed off with clean, sharp pruners. Perennials, trees and shrubs may be slightly damaged after a cold night, but usually will regrow.

Hail: This is probably the least predictable and most damaging weather event we can experience. If hail is imminent, take down exposed hanging baskets and cover veggie gardens with frost cloth, a tarp or an old sheet. Hail can tear holes in leaves and strip leaves off trees, shrubs and flowers. Extreme wind gusts can break branches. After a hail event, the best course of action is a good clean-up. With clean, sharp tools, trim branches, flower stems or anything broken. Rake up shredded leaves and plant bits. Fertilize everything with a low dose liquid plant food for additional energy.

Heat: Most mature plants can adapt to heat, but new plants with small root systems can struggle. Plants won’t bloom as well or develop fruit in hot weather. Regular watering early morning or evening hours is best. Be sure to water deeply at the root zone, not just wetting the foliage. Hanging baskets and plants in small containers can dry out very quickly. Some planters and baskets may even need to be moved into a protected shady spot for relief from the heat (this is also a good strategy when you’re gone for a few days). If plants get too dry, the tips will turn brown and crispy. In this case, cut off any of the damage, soak the plant thoroughly and fertilize with a mild liquid plant food.

Wind: Extreme winds associated with storms can break or damage tree limbs or other plants. Once the wind event is over, use clean sharp tools to trim anything broken or damaged. Continuous high winds can dry out hanging baskets or new plants in a snap. If possible, move plants to a sheltered spot such as a covered porch. If it’s not possible to move plants, be sure to water deeply at the root zone. During hot and windy weather, plants may wilt even though the roots are moist simply because they are transpiring (losing moisture from foliage) faster than they are able to take up water from their roots. Plants will usually rebound once the wind dies down and the day cools. If plants get too dry, the tips will turn brown and crispy. In this case, cut off any of the damage, soak the plant thoroughly and fertilize with a liquid plant food.

Fortunately, plants are very adaptable to many weather extremes and will put on new growth after being damaged. Routine maintenance will encourage healthy plants that are able to recover from weather extremes.

Links to regional weather forecasts:
National Weather Service:
Mountain Weather:
Teton Valley Weather:

14 Jun 2020

Flower Bed Maintenance

You’ve just purchased hundreds of dollars’ worth of flowers, sweated and toiled to plant everything and now you get to sit back and relax and enjoy the fruits of your labor, right? Well yes, but to get the most out of your plants, routine maintenance will keep your flowers at their best.

Irrigation:
Consistent water is vital to new plants. Hand watering, automatic sprinkler systems, soaker hoses or drip irrigation are all effective. The method you choose will depend on the size of your flower beds and budget. Be sure to check for any excessively dry or soggy spots. Inspect plants regularly when they are new for signs of dryness (crispy, brown leaf tips, wilted foliage) or overwatering (wilting, yellowing leaves). Water needs will vary depending on sun and wind exposure, drainage, and soil quality.

Weed control:
Regular weeding is key in allowing your flowers to thrive. Set aside some time weekly to pull weeds before anything gets out of hand. For tenacious weeds or grasses, some strategic use of herbicides may be warranted. Grass killers, such as Ortho™ Grass Be Gone will kill only grasses, but not desirable plants (the exception would be ornamental grasses and iris). Careful spot spraying with a non-selective herbicide containing glysophate (Killzall™ or Roundup™) can also help with difficult weeds. Pre-Emergent herbicides prevent seeds from germinating. Applied in early summer, pre-emergents can save a lot of time weeding. Organic corn gluten and synthetic pre-emergents like Casaron™ granules help. It is important to note that pre-emergents do not kill existing weeds.
Always read the label and apply the product as directed.

Fertilizer:
Fertilizing your plants will boost the health and appearance of your plants. Granular fertilizers can be applied once or twice a season. Liquid fertilizers can be applied throughout the growing season and are quickly absorbed to provide an immediate boost to your plants. We carry a wide variety of natural and synthetic fertilizers.
Always read the label and apply the product as directed.

Mulch:
Mulch helps retain soil moisture, keeps weeds from germinating, and helps regulate soil temperature. Most mulches we stock are forestry by-products like shredded and chipped bark. Rock or gravel can also be used as mulch, depending on the look you are trying to achieve.

Deadheading:
Deadheading is the process of removing spent flower stalks. Doing this allows the plant to divert its energy from seed production to root and flower formation and helps prolong the bloom time.

Having the right tools for garden maintenance makes the job easier. Find gloves, weeders, pruners, kneeling pads, and more in the tool section of our gift shop.
VIG rewards members receive 15% off tools and gloves.

Need Help?
Our professional maintenance team can help. Contact us for a quote

19 May 2020

Veggie Garden Basics Part 2

Refresh your memory with Part 1 of our two-part post on Veggie Gardening.

Now that your veggie garden is growing, routine maintenance will keep it healthy for the best production.

Weed Control
Allow a bit of time daily to do a visual check on your garden. This will help you notice any changes or problems that may arise. Hand-pull weeds weekly before anything gets too big. A hoe or cultivator will help knock weeds down while they’re still small.

Irrigation
Veggies need daily water during the growing season. Getting out into the garden and hand watering every day is simple to do and is an excellent way to become aware of any weed or pest activity. Soaker hoses or drip lines require more set up and moving parts, but can save time once they’re installed. Be sure to inspect irrigation lines routinely to make sure there are no excessively dry or wet areas.

Fertilizer
Nutrient-rich soil is vital to productive veggie gardens. Adding compost or manure or some combination yearly will give you the best results.
Since veggies are heavy feeders, a routine application of fertilizer throughout the growing season is important for healthy plants, and a bountiful harvest. We stock a wide array of organic and conventional fertilizers available to the home gardener. A granular fertilizer can be added at planting time and will slowly feed throughout the season. Liquid fertilizers are fast acting for a quick boost, but will need to be reapplied.
Always read the label before applying of any kind fertilizer and follow the instructions precisely.
Learn more about fertilizers here

Pests
Plants that are well-maintained and healthy tend to have fewer problems with pests. If plants are stressed due to drought or crowding, they are more susceptible to insect infestations. However, even the best-kept gardens can have trouble with pests.
Here are some common offenders and treatment method. The products listed here are natural or organic controls:
• Flea beetles- These tiny insects are common on radish, arugula, lettuce, and beans. They are small, black beetles that fly and jump from host to host. If you’ve had trouble in the past, cover these crops right after planting with row cover (Dewitt™ Seed Guard). Safer™ End All insecticide can be applied if they become a problem.
• Cabbage moths- Row cover (Dewitt™ Seed Guard) will keep these little white moths from laying eggs on cruciferous (broccoli, kale, cabbage, cauliflowers) crops. A routine treatment of Bt (Safer™ Garden Dust) also helps.
• Cabbage Worms- These well-disguised caterpillars are the larvae of the previously mentioned moths. They chew up cruciferous crops and are often hard to spot until the damage is noticed. Use Bt (Safer™ Garden Dust)
• Aphids- These tiny insects are usually green and feed on crops by puncturing and sucking the nutrients from the foliage. They are often on inner leaves or on undersides, making them tough to spot. Knock aphid populations down with Safer™ Insecticidal Soap or a strong jet of water.
Always read the label before applying any kind of pesticide and follow the instructions precisely.

Harvesting
Harvesting and eating is the greatest thing about growing your own veggies.
It’s best to harvest veggies in the morning or during cool weather, so they will stay crisp and last longer.
Greens: Leaf lettuces, salad mixes, arugula, and spinach varieties can be cut with scissors as soon as they’re 2 or more inches tall. Cut young kale, chard and beet greens to add to salads. Harvest these until they ‘bolt’ or flower. Once they have bolted, they will be bitter.
Beans and Peas: Pick these often and the plants will produce for longer.
Summer Squash: Cut squash off the vine while they’re still small for best flavor.
Tomatoes: pick as they ripen, but they will continue to ripen at room temperature off the vine. Pay attention to late summer and early fall temperatures and pick your tomatoes before they freeze.
Kale and Swiss chard: Harvest early summer for salads or late season for larger leaves.
Carrots, Beets, and Potatoes: Most varieties are best harvested in the fall during cool, dry weather.
Cabbage: Harvest after a few frosts for the best flavor.

You’ll find it hard to buy veggies from the store that match the flavor of home grown. With some patience, care, and knowledge, you’ll be able to enjoy your bounty for years to come!

13 May 2020

May at MD Nursery

We are happy to have the retail gift shop, greenhouse and the Flower Market open once again. We hope to re-open Marigold Café later in the month. With the COVID 19 pandemic, we will be operating differently than in years past. For the safety of our staff and customers, please:

– Follow current CDC recommendations for social distancing and face masks.
– Note: Some of our traditional entrances into the greenhouse and gift shop have changed to improve customer traffic flow.
-Read and respect our posted signage.
-Keep children close by.
-Leave pets at home or in your vehicle.
-Credit cards only, no cash.
-Call ahead for more complex gardening questions or consultation 208-354-8816.
-Plan ahead to keep visits short.

Our staff will continue to be vigilant in routine sanitation of carts, shopping baskets and other common surfaces. Wait times may be longer during peak times (10 am-2pm and Saturdays), please plan accordingly.

We appreciate our community and we are grateful for your business. Thank you for your patience and flexibility while shopping with us!

Alternate Ways to Shop:
Call ahead: We are taking phone orders as staffing and time permit. Pay over the phone and we will set aside your items for curbside pick-up. Call 208-354-8816.
Shop online: We have a selection of gardening essentials and gift cards available for online purchase. Online purchases will be set aside for curbside pick-up.
Visit https://mdnursery.square.site/

24 Mar 2020

Veggie Garden Basics, part 1:

Veggie gardening is a growing trend for so many reasons: sustainability, stress reduction, wellness, economy, variety, and taste are just some of the benefits of growing vegetables at home. Doing your homework and preparing a plan before you start really pays off in the productivity of your garden. Here is part one of a two-part series intended to guide rookie gardeners and serve as a resource for the seasoned gardeners. Entire books are written about vegetable gardening and this information is only meant to be a starting point and a general guideline.

Site Selection:
A good site is probably the best thing you can do to ensure veggie gardening success. Choose a site with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight and good drainage with no low, wet areas. If possible, choose a site sheltered from the wind. Try to stay away from trees and shrubs that send up shoots such as aspens, cottonwoods or chokecherries. Be sure there is convenient access to water. One of the biggest rookie mistakes is to start too big. Keep your garden small at first and expand as you learn what works for you.
Pro Tip: Position a garden near a south-facing wall or fence for additional radiant heat.

Soil Prep:
Next to site selection, soil quality will determine the productivity of your garden. Loose, well-draining soil rich in organic matter is key. If you are digging up a new site, add lots of organic material (compost, well-aged manure, soil conditioner) to improve soil condition, fertility, drainage, nutrient and water holding ability. If you are filling raised beds, aim for about a fifty-fifty mix of topsoil and organic material (compost, well-aged manure, soil conditioner). Plan to amend the soil in your veggie garden yearly (either in spring or fall) with more organic matter to replenish nutrients lost by cultivation.
If you are planting any heavy feeders such as squash, cucumbers or melons, add a granular fertilizer made for veggies (lots of fertilizer options for organic or conventional gardens, stop in the greenhouse and we can point you in the right direction).
Pro Tip: Soil can be warmed up faster in springtime by placing a layer of clear plastic over top for a few days before planting.

Garden Layout:
If possible, consider building raised beds for gardening. Raised beds offer better drainage, warm up earlier and require is less bending and kneeling. Lining Raised beds with hardware cloth will help keep pesky critters from coming into your garden beds. Keep any paths or walkways between raised beds wide enough to walk through with a wheelbarrow. Don’t plant tall plants or build trellises where they will shade other plants.
Pro Tip: Plant crops in a different spot in the garden each year. Rotating crops like this helps reduce pests and diseases that may linger in the soil.
See example below:

Planting Seeds:
Seeds are amazing wonders of Nature. To germinate and grow, they need soil, water, and light. Certain seeds (such as beans and squash) will only germinate when the soil temperature is warmer, others (peas, carrots) don’t mind getting started in cool soil. Get in the habit of reading the seed packet. The packet will include important information such as when to plant, seed spacing and ‘days to harvest’. It’s best to choose shorter ‘days to harvest’ varieties. Long season crops such as broccoli, cabbage, tomatoes, and peppers can either be started indoors or purchased as seedlings from the garden center.
There are countless varieties of seed to choose from, and it’s easy to get overwhelmed and try to grow too many things. For beginners, start off small and grow something easy (lettuce, radishes, salad greens), grow something you like to eat, and grow something simple (kale, Swiss chard).
Pro tip: Don’t worry if you get started later in the season. As soil temperatures warm up, seeds planted later will often catch up to those planted early because they germinate and grow faster in warmer soil.

Planting Guideline: Here’s a general guideline for the planting of common veggies in the Tetons. Refer to the information provided on the seed package for specific instructions.
Cool Weather Crops (Mid-April & May Planting):
– Spinach
– Peas
– Carrots
– Most lettuces and salad greens
– Radish
– Kale
– Carrots
– Broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower
– Potatoes
– Beets

Warm Weather Crops (first or second week of June):
– Tomatoes
– Beans
– Squash (zucchini, yellow squash, winter squash)
– Cucumbers
Pro tip: In Teton Valley, old-timers wait until the aspens have leafed out halfway up the mountainsides out before planting their first crops.
Bonus Pro Tip: Cheat the season and try planting your warm-weather crops a week early. Sometimes you can get away with it!

22 Jan 2020

Winter Care for Houseplants

Keeping houseplants healthy through the winter months can be a little tricky. Shorter day length, lower humidity and temperature fluctuations can add up to tough growing conditions. Follow these simple tips to keep your houseplants in top form all winter:
• Keep your room as bright as possible. Raise blinds and open the curtains during the day
as often as possible. For sun-loving plants such as succulents, consider moving them to a brighter spot or supplement with a grow light to maximize the light they receive.
• Keep room temperature between 60 and 70. Keep plants away from cold windows or drafty doors. Conversely, keep them away from wood stoves and hot air vents. Night time temperatures on the cooler side are best.
• Dry winter air can stress plants. To increase the humidity, group plants together to create a mini pocket of humid space. Mist frequently or if you have a lot of plants, use a room humidifier. Another trick is to place a layer of pebbles in the saucer underneath the plants and pour water over the pebbles. The evaporation will raise the humidity around your plant. Be careful not to let your plant sit in the water, but over top of the pebbles.
• Water and fertilize less. Plants enjoy a time of rest in the winter months, so fertilizing is not necessary. The potting soil should be completely dry before watering. Use tepid water, and water slowly until it seeps out of the drainage holes in the pot.
• Give them a shower. With plants that can be easily moved, bring them to a sink and hose them off with tepid water. This gets rid of dust and small insects such as spider mites and aphids.
When your houseplants are in good shape, you’ll also improve the air quality in your home for houseplants and for yourself.